Your Bright Summer on the Côte d’Azur

When somebody mentions the French Riviera and Monaco, it is the glamorous side of both that first comes to mind. Posh villas, spectacular palaces and hotels, megayachts and celebrity guests of no less celebrity parties and festivals. But underneath the surface, these are places that fill you with lasting impressions. Here is how to make the most of it.

The Nietzsche Path in Èze

Why go to a fitness studio, when you have a hike so rigorous as that. The Nietzsche Path stretches from seaside Èze-sur-Mer to the beautiful hilltop village of Èze, perched 450 metres above sea level. As legend has it, the German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche walked it daily, finding calm and inspiration for working on “Thus Spoke Zarathustra”. The demanding 4,2 km long hike with an elevation of 280 m helped awaken the Superhuman. And with such commanding views over the Mediterranean, it’s well worth every effort. 

While in Èze, stay at the legendary La Chèvre d’Or hotel, 400 m above the sea. Explore its stunning landscaped gardens and visit its eponymous 2-Michelin-starred restaurant, overseen by Arnaud Faye. 

Another gem is Château Eza, built 400 years ago. This hillside hotel, overlooking Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, attracts everyone in the know: from Hollywood stars to sport champions. Take delight in exquisite gastronomy by Justin Schmitt at the Michelin-starred restaurant and enjoy a range of exclusive activities, such as scenic helicopter flights over the Riviera: Casino de Monte-Carlo, the Circuit de Monaco, green hills, mansions and beautiful beaches of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and Villefranche-sur-Mer.

The Trophy of Augustus in La Turbie

Come to the mountain village of La Turbie, overlooking Monaco and the sea, and almost immediately you’ll notice the white columns of the Trophy of Augustus. The monument was built to glorify the Emperor Augustus two millennia ago. At the beginning it had 24 doric columns. The plate on its basement features the names of 44 tribes he conquered. 

Other places of interest in La Turbie are Monte-Carlo Golf Club and L’Hostellerie Jérôme with three restaurants headed by Bruno Cirino and a wine cellar with 40 000 bottles from Burgundy, Bordeaux, Languedoc, Champagne and many parts of the globe. 

Local Wines

Sunny vineyards are scattered all over the coast. In Porquerolles, it’s the Domaine de l’Ile with its delicate rosé and white wines. 

The family vineyard of Château de Brégançon with two centuries of history is located in the Var, on the promontory overlooking Porquerolles and Port-Cros. Of 450 ha of its territory, vineyards occupy 42 ha. They produce mostly rosé, although reds and whites are also available. 

Château de Crémat is a family neo-tuscan style estate in Nice. It was founded in 1906 on the very spot where vines have been grown since the ancient Romans. In the Roaring Twenties you would often see celebrity vacationers of the Côte d’Azur there. These days, its interiors dazzle with furniture from the Ritz hotel, bought at the auction, recreating the air of joviality of the past. 

Visit Château d’Estoublon, where you will taste fine wines and olive oil of the premium quality and enjoy Mediterranean and Provençal cuisine. You can rent the estate for a private event. Pay attention to Domaines Ott with a century of history, three wine estates and rosé wines, highly valued all over the world.

The Presidential Fortress

The mediaeval Fort of Bregançon at Bormes-les-Mimosas was renovated on the initiative of Cardinal de Richelieu and later of Napoleon Bonaparte. General de Gaulle transformed it into his stately holiday residence. And every next President, including Emmanuel Macron, followed suit. These days, Fort of Bregançon is a resort and a venue for diplomatic activities, visited by many heads of state. When there are no officials inside, the landmark is open to tourists. And anytime you can admire its majestic walls on a boat tour.

The Underwater Museum

Sainte Marguerite island, the largest of the Lérins islands, in the coastal waters near Cannes, is a feast for the eyes with its century-old eucalyptus and pines. The island is famous for its Royal Fort where the Man in the Iron Mask had spent 11 years imprisoned. Nowadays, his cell is a tourist sight. 

Sainte Marguerite island, just as others of the group, is famous for its marvellous sandy beaches and the crystal clear sea. Near its southern shore, on the depth of 3 to 5 metres, one can see six sculptures by Jason deCaires Taylor. These artificial reefs attract numerous fish and are a great snorkelling site.

The city of Cannes itself is blessed with vast sandy beaches, stretching for 7.5 km in total. Most of them are well-equipped, boasting fashionable beach clubs and shallow waters. Its Balm Beach is a notable kitesurfing spot. The wide sandy shores of Frejus are also highly praised.

Incredible Gardens

The Côte d’Azur has plenty of green spaces. Among the most beautiful are nine gardens of Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, the botanical garden Val Rahmeh and Maria Serena garden with a villa created by Charles Garnier (the “father” of Opera Monte-Carlo and Hôtel de Paris) – both in Menton, the exotic gardens in Monaco and Èze.  

Domaine du Rayol in Rayol-Canadel-sur-Mer will delight your senses with plants from the Mediterranean, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand, Asia, California, arid and subtropical regions of America and Chile. You can explore them day and night (the latter is a perfect way to soak up sounds and fragrances). There are also Marine gardens in the sea, so snorkelling tours are available.

Stargazing Experience

A stone’s throw from Nice, on the summit of Mount Gros, you can see an astronomical observatory. Founded in 1881, it was a brainchild of Charles Garnier, and its main dome, the largest retractable dome in Europe, was designed by Gustave Eiffel. The observatory was equipped with the most powerful telescope of that time, which helped to discover 2.000 stars in the sky above Nice.

In Èze kids and adults alike are accompanied by astronomers of Parsec-Astrorama in their exploration of the Milky Way. Stargazing with a resident astronomer is one of the most memorable activities in Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, a Four Seasons hotel in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. One of the spectacular features of the hotel is its Club Dauphin with a funicular to take you there. You’ll be impressed by its 33 m long infinity pool with heated seawater. Opened in 1939, it has remained the symbol of the hotel ever since and is considered among the most beautiful on earth.

Whale- and Dolphin-Watching Tours

Off the coast of Monaco, accompanied by a marine biologist, you can set out to the Pelagos Sanctuary, which is a haven for fin whales, pilot and sperm whales, dolphins of various species, mobula rays, sea turtles and Mediterranean monk seals. The marine reserve, the largest of its kind in Europe, occupies sea territories of France, Monaco and Italy up to Sardinia.

Scenic Road Trips

Corniche roads of the French Riviera go between Nice Port Lympia, or the Old Port, dating back to 1750, and Menton on the Italian border. 

The lower corniche follows the coast, just over the sea, passing Belle Époque villas and mansions with their intricate facades. This route will take you to Villefranche-sur-Mer, Beaulieu-sur-Mer, Èze-sur-Mer, Cap d’Ail, Monaco and Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, allowing you to observe them at close range. 

The Moyenne, which means “middle”, corniche gives access to glorious viewpoints on the way. It goes near the Belvedere in Villefranche-sur-Mer, the village of Èze and the viaduct, Mont des Mules in Beausoleil, descending to the peninsula of Cap Martin and its Sentier Le Corbusier. 

The Grand Corniche, built 500 metres above the sea, on the initiative of Napoleon Bonaparte, follows the Ancient Roman road – La Via Julia Augusta. Leaving all urban areas far below, it provides commanding views over Nice, Cap-Martin and Monaco and gives access to the Observatory in Nice, La Turbie with its Trophy of Augustus and the mediaeval castle on the hill in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin.

Railway Tours

The Train of Marvels runs between Nice and the town of Tende in the Southern Alps. It passes through the Mercantour National Park with its forested mountains and rivers and hilltop villages. This century-old route is one of the most picturesque in Europe. It goes through 81 tunnels, 15 arches and 407 bridges, including a 300 m long viaduct, with an elevation of 1 000 metres.

And can you think of a more romantic way to get from Paris to Cannes than on Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, a Belmond train? You will see beautiful landscapes of Burgundy, indulge in a four-course dinner and exquisite wines chosen by a sommelier in the old-world elegance of the restaurant car. 

The Belle Époque Heritage 

The French Riviera in its modern glory was established during the Belle Époque, when the term “Côte d’Azur” emerged as such. 

The tourist trail, named appropriately “Belle Époque” gives you access to century-old architectural masterpieces, including those in La Turbie, Beausoleil, Roquebrune-Cap-Martin and Menton in all their diversity. And that’s not only palaces, but also Gustave Eiffel covered market, Menton Tennis Club and many more.

While on holiday in Nice, hike Mont Boron, which rises 200 metres above sea level, to see remarkable Beaux Arts villas and palaces of the 19th century and gardens overlooking the Bay of Angels.

Stay at the new Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel in a Belle Époque palace (1848) next to the historic centre of Nice and Massena square. It has a rooftop restaurant and bar SEEN by Olivier with sweeping views over the city and the sea and the Spa with treatments by THALION – a Bretagne-based brand – and CHO Nature from Grasse.

The New National Museum of Monaco occupies two Belle Époque villas: Villa Paloma and Villa Sauber. Its growing collection contains over 10 thousand pieces, dating from the 19th century to the present time. You’ll find everything from sculptures, drawings and etchings to scenic costumes and dolls, and from Claude Monet paintings to video installations.

Paragliding

The peninsula of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin with its 686 m tall hill is a perfect starting point for paragliders. You soar high above the sea and Monaco, sometimes reaching Corsica. The landing spot is Golf Bleu Beach.

In Roquebrune-Cap-Martin enjoy the modernistic The Maybourne Riviera hotel, located 300 metres above the sea. It takes the 26th line in The World’s 50 Best Hotels 2023. It can boast of having a private beach, a restaurant of Michelin-starred chef Mauro Colagreco, rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows and large terraces, studios and duplexes with private pools.